Naruto Whirlpools
Stand on a glass-floored walkway above some of the largest tidal whirlpools on Earth.
Tokushima is the quiet corner of Japan most travellers miss — the one with mountain temples, the world's loudest summer festival, and an indigo dye so deep they call it Japan Blue.
Cross the Naruto Strait from Honshu and you arrive in Tokushima — the east-coast prefecture of Shikoku, an island many international visitors never reach. That is most of the appeal.
Here, tides ten metres high crash through a narrow channel and twist themselves into whirlpools the size of city blocks. Hand-woven bridges of mountain vine sway above jade-green rivers. Pilgrims in white robes leave a thousand-year-old temple to begin a 1,200-kilometre walk around the island. And every August, more than a million people pack into the streets to dance.
This site is a slow guide to all of it. Wander when you like.
A short list of places that capture the range of the prefecture — water, mountains, faith, festival, craft, food.
Stand on a glass-floored walkway above some of the largest tidal whirlpools on Earth.
A footbridge hand-woven from living mountain vines, deep in the Iya Valley.
Japan's biggest dance festival. Four nights of straw hats, taiko, and a million spectators.
A grassy summit ridge at nearly 2,000 m, reachable by chairlift and a gentle trail.
Temple One of the 88-temple Shikoku pilgrimage. Where white-robed pilgrims begin.
Japan's historic indigo heartland. Dip a cloth and watch it turn brilliant blue in the air.
A thousand full-size ceramic copies of the world's masterpieces — under one roof.
Trip plans, transit notes, season-by-season picks, and a long list of small towns worth a stop. This site is a work in progress — written from the road.